Cynthia Rowley Contoured Waistband Skirt Simplicity 1783

I knock around in Banana Republic skirts and shorts most days.  I really need some more casual skirts so when this Cynthia Rowley pattern popped up I jumped at it.

You almost don't see the skirt option on the pattern envelope.

Then realized it has the contoured waist.

I decided to create a muslin, crazy right?  It's such a simple skirt why would you do that?

Primarily because every contour waistband I've ever made with one exception has given me a peak at the side seam.

So I marked the muslin with the stitching line and popped the skirt on the form.

Here's the skirt section only without the waistband.

Front

Back

Looks fabulous so far.... so here comes the waist band

The dark navy is the original pattern, and the red is the new waistband seamline.

Here we are finished marking, and below the changes that need to be made before I cut the garment.

It's a cute little skirt, the hemline vent is on the front instead of the back, and it has the contoured waist.  The waist opening is a little tight, if you are going to make this I would lengthen the zipper opening at least another  inch (which would include lengthening the inside zipper facings).  It is so tight, I couldn't get it on my dressform, and had to photograph it on a much smaller size.  I have no trouble getting into it but it could be more comfortable.  The adjustment made in the previous post on the waistband was very successful.  The pockets on the original pattern are a bit of a mystery to me.  They are patch pockets that are sewn only on three sides.  I can't imaging anything staying in there if the opened side isn't stitched up from the bottom, so I elected to go with a pocket I really like from a YSL pattern (and I already had the template for them so that was a no brainer).

With the contour waist, the pattern calls for the skirt waist area to be stay stitched, which is necessary.  Here's what the pieces look like matched at the side seam and notches.

You might even think that you've cut the wrong size, when in reality you have not.  What's required here is clipping the skirt seam allowance to the stay stitch line (but not through the stitches).  It will then lie flat against one another.

Other than that, the skirt is a little short at around 18", if I were to make it again, I would lengthen it another 4", and maybe add some width at the hem for walking ease.   I thought that cutting a larger size in this pattern might be needed, so I measured a skirt that I wear all the time, and the width is exactly the same.  You might do the same to be on the safe side.   It reminds me of a tennis skirt as is, but this is for knocking around the neighborhood.  It's made out of the same fabric used for the trench made last year, it's a nylon blend faille, so this may end up being my rainy day skirt, which is appropriate as Isaac is just south of us today.

Version 2

Doesn't this look like something from the Easter Islands?


This is Simplicity 1783 with adjustments.

Added walking ease, longer zipper opening (and facings), and longer length.

I didn't need as much length as I cut, but wanted options and a deeper hem for this version.

I also added a welt pocket with buttoned flap , and lining.
'

This fabric was a remnant from 2 other projects, and I was left with less than a handful of scrap that's headed for the scrap pouf. It's very gratifying to use every bit of fabric, a little like finishing a pencil. 

Donna Karan Vogue Inspiration with OOP Vogue 2813 and Butterick 5756

It's black (slimming), it has pockets (practical), it's cotton (feels good against the skin), it has spandex in it (comfortable but manages to hold wrinkles but not a sharp pleat), it's poplin (so it's lightweight).  

  It rustles a bit like the nuns gowns.  When I was putting it together I was reminded of the pleated plaid skirt I had to wear in school.

Here it is without the hem band (way too short).

Here it is with the hem band fully extended (way too long)


The waistband is 1 1/4" wide, and contoured, so I had to make the changes to the curve for a swayback adjustment. The new pattern pieces lie beneath the originals.



As you can see it sits nicely.

Here are the details on the pocket from Butterick 5756, which are hidden in the side seam pleat.  

This is what it looks like inside out.

Here are the pattern pieces for the body of the skirt, they are rectangular.  The round shaping achieved at the band is through the angles of the tucks at the waistline.


We have front and back pieces here with the side seams facing each other.

As you can see, there is a tuck that bridges the side seam front and back piece.

First you add the pockets to the front and back side seam.

You join the side seam as you would any other, about 2" down from the waistband, then from the bottom opening to the hem (see pins), then around the pocket pieces.

Then you open up the seam...

And sew in your tuck

The pocket sits within the fold of the tuck, out of view.

Sorry about the black projects, they are nearly impossible to photograph.

I will say that the nice thing about these pockets is that if you have something in them, the fullness in the skirt camouflages the contents, which might be a nice feature when travelling.

I bought the skirt pattern (Butterick 5756) in the hopes I had found a workable solution for that Donna Karan shirt dress on the Vogue cover back in January, it had some of the elements I was looking for but falls a little short.  It's almost there but not quite.  So a little more tweaking.  The black shirt from Donna Karan OOP Vogue 2813, the Butterick 5756 skirt.

The Vogue dress for reference

On the runway

I need a wide belt to go with it, but there's no way I can make it out of the scrap that's left.  I did a really good job of getting all of the pieces cut from a limited amount of fabric. So the skirt has a similar silhouette, and it has the bottom hem band, but in black you can barely make out the pleats or any details.

What this really needs is a skirt that's not as pleated, maybe just one pleat to hide the pocket on the dress, and a fabric with a bit of sheen.  Something way happier than this dull black. 

Front - medium width belt

Back - medium width belt

Front - Wide belt

Back - Wide belt

I think I like the narrower belt for this version, so back to the drawing board.