Saturday, July 12, 2014

Charles James Metropolitan Museum of Art


In case you can't make it to the exhibit you can check out the videos on the Metropolitan of Museum of Art website.  The second video which shows the detail of the installation. I was really impressed with the the way the Met displayed the dresses in a way that you could walk around them, and the robotics, as well as the cross section images and pattern information.  If you're a fan of Drape Drape, you will enjoy this show.


On the left bar you'll find more information including images, social media and audio interviews.


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Charles James and the Clover Dress


Charles James at the Metropolitan Museum of Art NYC



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Friday, May 2, 2014

Repurposing or Keeping the outgrown size range... the slippery slope.

As I go through the bins, I find I have bins filled with yardage (uncut fabric and lace), labels and shoulder pads, and yarn (with paraphernalia), and to my surprise the more troubling categories, some UFO's, scrap and clothing.   There are a disproportionate number of bins (nearly half), of non yardage textile inventory.

This little beauty is finally departing, the fabric was very expensive, so much so, that I could only afford a little bit of it, and my mother the master of making every inch count, had to patch the facings (which was done symmetrically on both sides, pic on bottom, camouflaged with hem tape).





Clothes that no longer fit
Some of you very disciplined folk have gotten rid of the clothes that don't fit you, I find I have hung on to some of them.  Why you ask?  To be frank, I know I will not get back into the sizes that are 6" too small for me, even though it seems like yesterday those clothes were too large.  Memory is a funny thing, (it would appear that I have been trying to lose the same 10 lbs for the last 8 years, not the last 6 months).  I told myself that I would keep them for my niece.... flash back 3 months when she was visiting, and I showed her my prized possessions that were mostly met with a quizzical look. The last reason, was that I could now use those garments as muslin, or part of a quilt, or maybe pocket linings.... yes don't laugh, I'm hopeless.

Is there enough fabric in the garment to realistically refashion into another garment that you would wear?
If yes than work on it, and complete the garment in 7 days.

If it doesn't fit, and it's small yardage and it's in good condition - donate  or sell it
If it can't be donated because of stains or damage - it probably gave you your money's worth - retire it.

If you are keeping it to re purpose wash it - take it apart and store it.  Huh? Yup because if you can't be bothered, get rid of it.

Finally, if you think that someone can use it as is instead of repurposing it, weigh that option as well.

Then there are the items that are made of such high quality fabrics, I can not bear to part with them, what will become of these? If I have the space I'm keeping them but if you have suggestions I'm open to hearing them.


Old Sheets anyone? It would seem that in the process of eliminating clutter in all of the other areas of the house would cause me to recycle any textile item to my sewing bins.  Sheets, linen table cloths, needlework fabrics, napkins, it's all fair game.  What to do with these?

I'm keeping them, I need some practice quilting and when they are finished I can donate them.
They are good for muslins, they are also put in use protect furniture and beds from kitty hair.
They are also good for interfacing, since they are tightly woven, light weight and are preshrunk.
Also can be used to line garments, especially summer dresses.

Linens... as in the linen fiber table cloths
Keeping those as well....... have you seen this nuns quilts by Cindy Needham?

Scraps
Sorting :) because I want to make a crazy quilt this year and the most interesting ones I've seen have been made out of a million different fabrics.

They are being sorted in bags by fiber content... how much do you want to bet that some of these bags don't make it back to the sewing room.....


Wish me luck, you won't hear from me again until this is completed.




Tuesday, April 29, 2014

When is it all too much ? Hoarding or Stash?


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There are a few times during the year when the idea of streamlining your stash becomes attractive, for me,  the time has come.  So when does stash building go wrong?  When does it become hoarding?  After an illness last year, I was forced to make room for caretakers.  Every bit of the stash was moved to a storage unit 6' x 6' x 10' , and proudly every inch of space was utilized in a way that I could get to it easily, with just a little shifting.  Convinced I would only need to keep the space for 3 months, the cost of rental seemed reasonable.  Fast forward 5 months, it all has to come back in.  A new opportunity to apply new priorities to the existing stash.  My beautifully empty home will be invaded once again (that's not to say I didn't miss my stash).

We've all seen the hoarding shows, we tell ourselves, it can't happen to us, what were these people thinking?  Yet, we all love a bargain, who can resist it?  Making our money last with a bargain and having that rush of getting something for free, or finding a beautiful cut of fabric, or that hard to find notion that will make our lives easier, or and the list goes on.  One of the few non fattening indulgences we allow ourselves.

Think about this.... some of the hoarders on these shows have been traumatized, either by physical illness, or emotional upheaval.  There are a number of things that can leave us immobilized, loss of a loved one, a divorce, an illness, there are pitfalls everywhere.  The mail keeps coming, the bills keep coming, the magazines the inserts (that we don't ask for), there will always be stuff coming into the house for as long as we are alive.  So we try to keep ahead of it, by taking out the trash, donating, and swapping or selling things, but sometimes the "creep" wins, and we find ourselves tackling the piles all over again.

Many of the tips to streamline your wardrobe (if you have mostly clothing fabrics), and declutter tips to focus your craft supplies (which for me now include quilting) can be applied here.

First step - Like Items with Like Items -  Go through all of those bins and put like things together, everyone will have a different set of categories.  I have whittled down the yarn collection to 2 bins and a knitting machine.  The silk boxes are a mere 3 bins, the linen 1 bin, the wool 1 bin, the quilting paraphernalia has grown to 3 bins from 0.  Depending on how you sew, bead or knit, your categories will be different.



Second Step - Inspection -

Eliminate anything that smells that you aren't committed to cleaning.  If it smells musty because it's been in the bin too long chances are you will never get a fresh cleaning garment out of it, and if you keep it with other fabrics that aren't musty, know, that the musty will spread.  Also this is something that is really important if you frequent garage sales, thrift stores, or craigslist remember to smell any garments or fabric you are bringing into your home.  Sometimes our enthusiasm gets the better of us and by the time we are home it's too late.  Also as a friend cautioned me, the threat of bed bugs is another issue, so maybe a quarantine would be in order.

Toss anything that is dirty, damaged or stained  I kept some threads that I have tested and they are sun bleached along the ends, and break very easily. These might be useful for thread art, but seriously, not even for that, the chance of them disintegrating further and spoiling your project, it's just not worth it .  Some of the pearl cotton which was inherited from my mother's stash, has yellowing, this could be used for displays or photo shoots, but I don't do that sort of thing.  Broken supplies, like plastic rulers, those items missing an important component that makes it non functioning need to go away.

Separate things to donate or sell 
Will you ever use it?   These are the items that are still useful, and can find a home somewhere else. That double knit polyester from the 70's might find a home on ebay or the thrift store for a kitschy 70's costume. Those specialty items you purchased as result of a class, or your dreams of making the largest pom pom in the universe, they need to find a new home.  Do you have fabrics that aren't the right color for you or that now you can't stand the feel of?  I used to wear poly knits to work all the time, loved them, they wash well, were fluid, had a nice drape, maintained their colors, what's not to like?  Well, I find I can no longer tolerate them, they are simply too hot for my climate, so they have to go.  Remember that yardage fury when you entered the stash busting contest, and decided you would win with the 4,000 tutu's and circle skirts you were going to sew up in 10 minutes.  Don't be ashamed, maybe a children's theater group can make good use of those fabrics.... unless you wear petticoats, and there's nothing wrong with that either.  Just be realistic here.

Now that you have those piles organized, get them out of the house as quickly as possible.  Do not allow yourself to go through the elimination piles again.


Next.....The slippery slope..... repurposing.







Tuesday, July 23, 2013

Snoop Shopping - Erdem Chiffon Swallow Dress

Do you remember this Erdem dress from Spring 2010?  I loved this dress (for a much younger thinner person), it is very romantic, and I also loved the birds and the texture they achieved with the chiffon.

Spring 2010 Erdem dress swallows

I had the opportunity to take a closer look.
Here we have the main motif, since the print does not have sharp edges, they have solved it by running a chain stitch to outline the bird, and some essential details, along with a satin stitch around the neck.
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The other motifs, some of which are easy to identify and others less so.
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The dress itself is pretty amazing when you consider that all of the texture is simply bias chiffon layers that have been sewn on a chiffon background.
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It is lined in silk charmeuse, in a coordinating print.
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Of course this goes back to my textile envy post, these fabrics are manufactured for the designer.  I couldn't begin to imagine how much yardage went into this dress, or how it was manufactured.  So this is one of those fabrics, while not impossible to make would be cost and time prohibitive.... but if you really wanted it...
Erdem swallow

Wednesday, July 10, 2013

Valentino: The Last Emperor

I saw this in the theater when it was first release and now it's available on youtube.  The youtube version is not subtitled and there are stretches where they are strictly speaking Italian, but it's fun to see the fashion shows, the construction process, the friendship between Valentino and his partner Giancarlo... and the pugs.

Valentino: The Last Emperor

Wednesday, July 3, 2013

The Mechanics of Lingerie - Les Arts Decoratifs Paris Exibit

If you are going to Paris between July 5th - November 24th, you might want to pop into Les Arts Decoratifs.  Their latest exhibit Le Mecanique des Dessous (The Mechanics of Lingerie) looks very interesting.  I love the way they were photographed on the website, so dramatic.

red bustle

Articulated Panier


Tuesday, July 2, 2013

Sewing Instruction on Youtube

My local public television station just went digital and stopped broadcasting.  From 11:00 to 12:00 I usually tune in to "It's Sew Easy" and have it on in the background, popping in if they have anything interesting on.  I just discovered I can have it on all day if I like because youtube has 8 hours of snippets from the show.  Alternatively, they feature their most recent episode on their website, in the later episodes you'll find Angela Wolf, Peggy Sagers, Gretchen Hirsch and even "Suede" from Project runway.

"It's Sew Easy" Website

"It's Sew Easy" on Youtube.

Saturday, June 29, 2013

Maidenform - Creating a Bra Prototype

If you ever tried to make your own bra and failed, have a look at this short National Geographic youtube video called Bra Business.  Once you realize that at least 20 changes are made to the prototype before production you won't feel like you've done that badly!

How Stitches are Formed In Sewing Machines

I found this animation which shows, how loops are formed in a sewing machine. When I first started out, I was always curious how these machines seem to magically form loops. You'll need to scroll down a little to see both animations for Chain Stitch and Straight Stitch.  It comes in handy for trouble shooting your machines.

Sewing Machine loop

Friday, June 28, 2013

How Dress Forms are Made

Finding it difficult to sew today... so I'm still on the How Stuff Works website and found a great video on how a dress form is constructed. (there's a 20 second commercial before it starts, mine was Toyota).

Wolf Dress Forms