Saturday, June 29, 2013

Cynthia Rowley Contoured Waistband Skirt Simplicity 1783

I knock around in Banana Republic skirts and shorts most days.  I really need some more casual skirts so when this Cynthia Rowley pattern popped up I jumped at it.


You almost don't see the skirt option on the pattern envelope.


Then realized it has the contoured waist.
I decided to create a muslin, crazy right?  It's such a simple skirt why would you do that?
Primarily because every contour waistband I've ever made with one exception has given me a peak at the side seam.

So I marked the muslin with the stitching line and popped the skirt on the form.
Here's the skirt section only without the waistband.



Looks fabulous so far.... so here comes the waist band


The dark navy is the original pattern, and the red is the new waistband seamline.


Here we are finished marking, and below the changes that need to be made before I cut the garment.


Skirt front

It's a cute little skirt, the hemline vent is on the front instead of the back, and it has the contoured waist.  The waist opening is a little tight, if you are going to make this I would lengthen the zipper opening at least another  inch (which would include lengthening the inside zipper facings).  It is so tight, I couldn't get it on my dressform, and had to photograph it on a much smaller size.  I have no trouble getting into it but it could be more comfortable.  The adjustment made in the previous post on the waistband was very successful.  The pockets on the original pattern are a bit of a mystery to me.  They are patch pockets that are sewn only on three sides.  I can't imaging anything staying in there if the opened side isn't stitched up from the bottom, so I elected to go with a pocket I really like from a YSL pattern (and I already had the template for them so that was a no brainer).

Pocket detail

With the contour waist, the pattern calls for the skirt waist area to be stay stitched, which is necessary.  Here's what the pieces look like matched at the side seam and notches.

Ease waistband to skirt

You might even think that you've cut the wrong size, when in reality you have not.  What's required here is clipping the skirt seam allowance to the stay stitch line (but not through the stitches).  It will then lie flat against one another.

clip to ease stitch

Other than that, the skirt is a little short at around 18", if I were to make it again, I would lengthen it another 4", and maybe add some width at the hem for walking ease.   I thought that cutting a larger size in this pattern might be needed, so I measured a skirt that I wear all the time, and the width is exactly the same.  You might do the same to be on the safe side.   It reminds me of a tennis skirt as is, but this is for knocking around the neighborhood.  It's made out of the same fabric used for the trench made last year, it's a nylon blend faille, so this may end up being my rainy day skirt, which is appropriate as Isaac is just south of us today.

Collar close up

Version 2

Doesn't this look like something from the Easter Islands?
Pocket opening

This is Simplicity 1783 with adjustments.


Simplicity 1783

Added walking ease, longer zipper opening (and facings), and longer length.
Simplicity 1783 skirt

I didn't need as much length as I cut, but wanted options and a deeper hem for this version.

I also added a welt pocket with buttoned flap , and lining.


This fabric was a remnant from 2 other projects, and I was left with less than a handful of scrap that's headed for the scrap pouf. It's very gratifying to use every bit of fabric, a little like finishing a pencil. 

1 comment:

deanna said...

Your patience and attention to fitting amazes me every time. I wish I was that disciplined, Id have a lot fewer muslins :)