Thursday, May 22, 2014

The Perfect Skirt Length..... another skirt alteration

While finishing the pretzel skirt, I stopped at the hem.  It's a pain to hem for oneself, do you have the right length or not?  Once it's stitched, will you go back and rip that hem out because you missed it by 1/2"? I have been guilty of doing that, and find that it comes to haunt me later I thought.... what?  it's not perfect, no way I'm not ripping it out, I have far too much fabric, so many projects to get to, but with every wear I'm reminded that I could have done better.  So here's where we need to stop and be smart about things.  Figure out what your Perfect Skirt Length is first, and pin it up and try it on, then go ahead and finish that puppy off.

I found a blog that explains the information very clearly at Crewsing Thru My 50's  (if you are younger don't be put off by the title, these rules are for everyone.

So armed with that knowledge I used it to hem my pretzel skirt, and my shorts, and now my new circle skirt redo.  You have to remember though that the fuller the hem of the skirt the longer it can be, also if you are wearing it with heels, wear them when you are determining your length.  So my pretzel skirt is a tad shorter than this one.

This is what happens to clothes that sit in bins waiting for alteration, they get a little wrinkled.


It looks nice enough what's wrong with it? Oh, that's what's wrong.... image

Time to take it apart... Here we have the inside waist area, which shows the same treatment we've all seen in pattern instructions. There's the fabric skirt, and the inside facing (with fusible interfacing)and lining. image

Then we have some interesting construction details... here is the seam binding once again, to stabilize the waist edge.


Then we have thread tacks to keep the pleats attached to the waist facing.

Draping the skirt.


Zipper removed, and waistband shaped... image

Looking for fabric to finish the waistband.... this is why they say don't bring an item to be altered unless there is plenty of fabric to work with, which is why circle skirts and full skirts are good candidates.

waist band

Iron and trim...

New waistbands

Parking the skirt

The skirt is 99% done, just a waist band hook, and hem away.... and when I find my tapestry needle I can get rid of those thread tails on the lining.  I am stopped now but I am considering what treatment to use on the hem. 

 The bias panel which was attached to the bottom is turned up and basted.  I am curious about how this will wear over time, and if I should abandon the nice wide vintage hem, or trim it back.  I like the weight that is added at the hem, but when they finished the edge off on the bias, the stitching distorted the bias and it has a soft lettuce effect.....


... all will be revealed at month end, and you can judge if I've achieved the perfect hem length in these alteration exercises.

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