Saturday, June 29, 2013

Palmer Pletsch Boatneck t-shirt Pattern McCalls M6571 With Fitting Instructions

I don't know why people think that knits don't have to be fitted.  Is it because we are so used to this kind of fit, that improving it isn't a priority? 
Example of ill fitting T-shirt


So here's an opportunity to get one version of a t-shirt done to my specifications.

6571  1

Another Palmer Pletsch pattern from McCalls.  These patterns are fun, they are chock full of fitting instructions, and while the style isn't trendy or cutting edge, it is a classic.  View A is a boatneck with a shallow V  just a little different, view B is more of the classic boatneck, with a slightly rounded neckline.

6571 2 first tissue fit

This is exactly how RTW fits, complete with drag lines on the lower back and funky fullness on the front.
Tackling those issues.... sway back is adjusted.

Sway back

Bust dart is marked
bust dart

Changes are made to the pattern and refitted.

6571 full bust and swayback adjusted

It's only tissue and it's already looking better.
Here we are at the fabric stage, just pinned at the shoulders and sideseams.
6571 cut in fabric

6571 cut in fabric back

Tada!! This will be one of these t-shirts I'll wear until threadbare.  Now I changed the fit from the pattern a bit and made it a little less fitted.  The reason for this is that the knit used is fine cotton lisle, 100% cotton, with no lycra.  I don't know if it will shrink substantially but I've left enough ease to wiggle my way back in after washing.  The neckline on this t-shirt is very flattering, so it will be made again, maybe even today.

McCalls 6571 bateau neckline

McCalls 6571 bateau neckline
This is the cotton lisle close up.
Cotton Lisle

I liked the facing on this t-shirt, and while I thought it might make it too precious, it gives stability to the neckline and shoulder area, and makes this t-shirt just a little more refined, and it gives the neckline stability.
McCalls 6571 facing

The t-shirt above is view A, (on the left) which has a slight v.  View A (on the right) has a rounded shape but they are both about the same depth.  The pattern comes with 2 pattern pieces for the front, so you don't have to worry about cutting the "v" neckline and destroying the pattern for the rounded version.

McCalls 6571 line drawings
Here is the other view in the pattern which is the classic boatneck.


Had to make another to go with my striped pants, but the skirt was on the dressform and I think I'm channeling french casual here.  I just need to go out and buy a baguette and beret!  This is the proper boatneck neckline included in the pattern.  I really like how this is drafted, and have learned a little about not over fitting with this pattern.



As a display to show off a necklace.

The pants are in the next post....

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