Monday, July 1, 2013

Vogue 1255 Rebecca Taylor Tunic in Handkerchief Linen

This pattern needs 4.5 to 4.75 yards of fabric, mostly because of the bias details. Cutting small bias pieces can be frustrating. True bias rolls gracefully, but if it's off grain, it can cause ripples in an otherwise beautiful garment.  The pattern recommended a handkerchief linen, but pick something light weight with drape as featured on the pattern envelope.


There are 8 pieces of varying widths that are cut on the bias, and 3 pieces on the straight grain. These are easiest cut with a rotary blade and a mat.


I like to group them together from narrowest to widest and start cutting strips.
It is important that bias strips are cut relaxed on the table, bias can stretch and narrow if it's not flat, especially if the fabric has drape (crepe de chine, georgette, chiffon).
Once the proper width is cut, trim them to the length required.


There are a few pieces that were wider than 30", so I traced out the pieces on my pattern paper and placed it on the fabric.

If you are going to make this keep in mind that there are 21 pattern pieces (2 are elastic guides), you'll have 34 pieces all together. I've selected a handkerchief linen for this project so the ruffles are a little more crisp than the pattern envelope.

If you are planning on making this it would be worth while to get to know how the pleats fall, I referred back to the original pattern piece several times to get it right.

Vogue 1255 pattern folding

You could leave the ruffles off, and I'm thinking about doing that for the next version. The widest pleat on the outside is hidden between the ruffles.


This is an exercise in precision, between the ruffle and the tuck, you have very little clearance.

The first ruffle and tuck - perfect!

The opposite ruffle and tuck - there's a 6" area where the tuck caught the seam allowance on the ruffle.

You don't have much clearance.

That's been corrected.

The pattern instructions call for the front to be split open very early on, but since my fabric would fray with a lot of manipulation, it wasn't opened until it was time for the front button loops and underlay.
This pattern has a lot of details.... like spaghetti loops.

Front spaghetti  loops

Button loops


Underlapped front

There are a lot of details...this is before the hem facing.
Vogue 1255 before the hem facing

This is the hem facing, the top piece was freshly topstitched and not ironed.
Hem facing

These are the side inserts.
Side insert

The bias cuff and continuous lap.
bias cuff and continuous lap

The sleeve cap.
Sleeve cap

Did anyone else notice how narrow the shoulders are on this pattern? The sleeve cap and the back width add enough ease to accommodate the arm, which I found really interesting. Also I have to say, this was one pattern that did not have excess ease in the sleeve cap, it was perfect. It also looks really good on the body. The lines of the armscye instead of being vertical, tilt towards the center.
Vogue 1255 and bias cutting

Back shot..

Fortunately there is no real deadline for this garment, there is a lot of finishing to be done yet.
- After a trip to Joann's there were no buttons that I would consider for this project, so it will need to be covered buttons.

The fabric is making me hesitate. I know that this linen will soften up but this is what it looks like now. I've pinned the tucks extending them just a bit more than the pattern calls for, and here it is pictured, it is improved a bit.
lengthening the tucks

The fullness from the tucks really shows up on the hem making it wider than the back hem, and creates those diagonal lines that I would like to trade in for vertical ones.
There are a few solutions for this, I can extend the tucks all the way through the facing.

Tweaking Vogue 1255

Or I can shorten the top and convert it into a bodysuit. This highlights everything I like about this pattern, the neckline, the vertical lines created by the tuck and ruffle, the sleeve. It would be perfect for Christmas :)

Vogue 1255 as a shirt

It looks good over a pair of off white wool pants and, for the first time I am ready for Christmas dinner.

Alternatively, if you are looking for a cute little sleep shirt, I can see this in a cotton lawn, or a white silk with lace inserts for a bride. Even though I'm hesitating, I still really like this pattern, it has a lot of possibilities.
In the end, it looks better loose or belted, so the casings and ties were removed.
I'll be making this one again, shorter, without the facing, as a blouse, and in a silk CDC.

Vogue 1255 front

Vogue 1255 neckline

Vogue 1255 back

Vogue 1255 sleeve button

Pleat detail

Covered buttons

Covered buttons 2

Covered linen buttons

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