Monday, July 8, 2013

Vogue OOP V2410 Tropical Wool Pants & Couture Techniques

Have you ever played hide and seek with your lining fabric.  I could have sworn I had black, but could not find it, so I'm using a cotton lawn fabric for the pocket lining and Hong Kong finish on the seam allowance.  A little color in a drab pant.

There are a few interesting details in this pattern, the pocket and the waistband have caught my attention.

YSL OOP pattern 2410

I had a little fun with these, and auditioned some metallic thread to use for the topstitching.  I just love these little Featherweight bobbins.

Metallic thread on tropical weight wool

The Pocket

The pocket on these pants is formed first by creating the finished pocket opening.  (Pant leg wrong side up, pocket lining right side up).

 Then basting the lining piece to the pant front (The basting becomes a guide for the self fabric pocket piece that will cover the lining edges) .

 When you turn it over you have a lovely finished edge.

 The final step- take your self fabric pocket piece, turn the 1/2" seam allowance on the bottom and long edge of the pocket piece and topstitch down.  The stitching will show on the right side of the pant, and the underside traps the lining piece and gives you a nice finished interior. 

This is what they look like finished, you can barely make out the topstitching.

Side view 2410

I was very surprised that there was no stabilizing required for the pocket edge, and I might add a little organza strip the next time, just to make sure the pocket opening doesn't stretch out.

The Waistband
The waistband finish was also very interesting, it is  prepared without the inside lining (just the interfacing), turning and securing all of the seam allowances first.
Couture technique waistband

Then the lining piece is prepared by folding back the seam allowance at the fold line, joining the folded edges by hand.  It makes for a very flat lying waistband.
Inside waist

Hit the Button Box

Forgive the rolled up t-shirt, these pants are wide legged and very comfortable and fluid.

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